BLACK MANDARIN

Black Mandarin is the extrait de parfum created by Bertrand Duchaufour for Les Folies Du Parfum, launched in 2026: a unisex amber oriental that turns the classic citrus into something dark and mysterious, inspired by the light-and-shadow duality of Mata Hari.

The Fragrance

Black Mandarin grows out of a figure, not an ingredient: Mata Hari, dancer and spy of the First World War, an icon of duality between light and shadow, stage and secret. The fragrance tries to translate that duplicity into an olfactory structure — a citrus that darkens, a mandarin that stops being merely fresh and becomes "black", enigmatic.

How It Wears on Skin

The opening is warm and citrusy, with candied mandarin softened by rose and saffron. The heart brings in the "black mandarin" — an accord built specifically to evoke a darker, more mysterious citrus, not a raw material that exists in nature — alongside myrrh and cashmere, in a passage that feels more hushed and velvety than the opening. The base of oud, suede and benzoin closes with an enveloping density: longevity and projection stay strong, as confirmed by our own in-boutique testing.

Who We Recommend Black Mandarin For

Suited to those who love amber orientals with a citrus twist, and to anyone drawn to fragrances with a strong story or concept behind them rather than the olfactory pyramid alone. Being a very recent release, it's also an interesting pick for those who like being among the first to discover the brand's new arrivals.

Fragrance Characteristics

Our Take

The Mata Hari concept genuinely works here, not just on paper. The shift from candied mandarin to "black mandarin" at the heart is the most successful moment — that turn from sunny citrus to something more ambiguous and dark is exactly the duality the brand promises, and it holds it right through to the end.

Similar Fragrances

Same rose, saffron, benzoin and oud: Oudonism by Devertere

Same saffron, rose, oud, benzoin and leather: Exotic Oud by Jupilò

Same oud as the pulsing heart of the composition, in a more tropical-exotic key: Passionfroudh by Fugazzi

FAQ

Why is it called "Black Mandarin" if mandarin is usually a fresh, bright note?
"Black mandarin" isn't a raw material that exists in nature — it's an accord built by the perfumer to evoke a darker, more mysterious citrus than classic mandarin, in keeping with the light-and-shadow contrast at the heart of the Mata Hari concept.

Who was Mata Hari, and why is she linked to this fragrance?
Mata Hari was a Dutch dancer and spy during the First World War, who became an icon of seduction and ambiguity: the brand cites her as the inspiration for the composition's light-and-shadow duality.

What size is Black Mandarin available in on your store?
Black Mandarin is available as a 100 ml extrait de parfum.

Product Information

Brand: Les Folies Du Parfum
Name: Black Mandarin
Concentration: Extrait de Parfum
Size: 100 ml
Olfactory family: Amber Oriental
Perfumer: Bertrand Duchaufour
Launch year: 2026
Made in: Italy